Prepare Your Nissan Skyline for R's Day 2022 at Streets of Willow Springs

Sean Morris Posted on March 16, 2022

R's Day 2022 at Streets of Willow Springs

R's Day 2022 is coming up on April 30th at Streets of Willow Springs. If you have driven on track dozens of times, or this is your first time, here are some procedures, and checklists of items to help ensure your over 25 year old Nissan Skyline GT-R survives.

Hotel in Lancaster - We have a group rate under R's Day

May 1, Open House at Toprank Importers. 5595 Corporate Ave.

If you have the Gran Turismo video game series, this track is available.

Notebook or notes
Maintenance
Fluids
Tires
Brakes
Cooling
Suspension
Alignment
Oiling
Nut and Bolt
Tow Hooks
Fuel
Modifications
Track instructional videos
Track Day Insurance

R's Day 2022 at Streets of Willow

1. Notebook or Notes

We are in the modern era of taking notes on cars, but I still generally use handwritten notes. I generally have a notebook for each car. In it I have car information.

2.Maintenance

You have to maintain the car. You have to at least check these items. If you don't know the last time they were replaced, replace them prior to your track day.

Basics - Read and know the basics
Air Filter
Spark Plugs
Fuel Filter
Compression/Leak Down Test
Injector cleaning results

Maintenance Requirements for RB26DETT/ R32

Air filter element	Fram CA4309 K&N 33-2031-2	Every 36,000 miles
Oil	A 10-30 , 15-50, 10-60 depending on ambient temperature	3,000 miles or 6 months
Oil Filter	OEM 15208-60U00 OEM R32 AY100-NS007 K & N HP-2008 MOBIL M1-208 WIX 51361 OEM(R34, smaller filter) 15208-9E000	Every 3,000 miles
Spark Plugs	NGK PFR6A-11 BCPR7EIX (one heat range colder iridium)	Every 60,000 miles
Timing Belt	OEM 13028-20P25 Tensioner- 13070-42L00 Idler- 13074-58S00 Tensioner Spring- 13072-58S10 Water Pump - 21010-21U26 N1 Water Pump - 21010-24U27 Oil Seal- Camshaft (x2) 13042-16V00 Oil Seal - Crankshaft Front - 13510-19V00	Every 60,000 miles
Suspension ball joint grease	Grease	Every 72,000 miles or 4 years
Manual transmission fluid	GL-4 75 –90 OR Redline Shockproof Heavy (we recommend)	Every 60,000 miles or 2 years
Differential Fluid - Front	GL-5 85W-90 or Shockproof Heavy Front diff fill plug - 00931-2121A . Front diff drain plug (has a magnet) 32103-01A01	Every 60,000 miles or 2 years
- Center	Nissan Automatic Fluid D	Every 60,000 miles or 2 years
- Rear	LSD GL-5 80W-90 or Shockproof Heavy and LSD additive	Every 60,000 miles or 2 years
Fuel Filter	OEM 16400-72L00, 16400-72L05, 16400-72L15 Purolator F44663 same as 1996 Infiniti J30	Every 15,000 miles
Wiper Blades	Right Front Left Front Rear	19.5 inches 18.5 inches 16 inches
Radiator Cap	OEM – 21430-4B700
Brake Pads- Front	FMSI D460, D647, D1182 HB178 AP460 R-4S	As required
- Rear	AP109 .595 R-4S	As required
Brake Rotor - Front	296 mm x 32 mm 40206-05U02 Right Side 40206-05U03 Left Side	As required
Rear	Same as Z32 TT 43206-05u13	As required
Power Steering belt AC belt Alt/ WP /Fan	4PK 950 4PK 925 4PK 880	4PK= 4 rib 950= 950mm

Maintenance Requirements for RB26DETT/ R33

Air filter element	Fram CA4309 K&N 33-2031-2	Every 36,000 miles
Oil	A 10-30 , 15-50 - 10-60 based on ambient temperature	3,000 miles or 6 months
Oil Filter	OEM 15208-60U00 OEM R32 AY100-NS007 K & N HP-2008 MOBIL M1-208 WIX 51361 OEM(R34, smaller filter) 15208-9E000	Every 3,000 miles
Spark Plugs	NGK PFR6A-11 BCPR7EIX (one heat range colder iridium)	Every 60,000 miles
Timing Belt	OEM 13028-20P25 Tensioner- 13070-42L00 Idler- 13074-58S00 Tensioner Spring- 13072-58S10 Water Pump - 21010-21U26 N1 Water Pump - 21010-24U27 Oil Seal- Camshaft (x2) 13042-16V00 Oil Seal - Crankshaft Front - 13510-19V00	Every 60,000 miles
Suspension ball joint grease	Grease	Every 72,000 miles or 4 years
Manual transmission fluid	GL-4 75 –90 OR Redline Shockproof Heavy (we recommend for a hard run car)	Every 60,000 miles or 2 years
Differential Fluid - Front	GL-5 85W-90 or Shockproof Heavy Front diff fill plug - 00931-2121A . Front diff drain plug (has a magnet) 32103-01A01	Every 60,000 miles or 2 years
- Center	Nissan Automatic Fluid D	Every 60,000 miles or 2 years
- Rear	LSD GL-5 80W-90 or Shockproof Heavy and LSD additive	Every 60,000 miles or 2 years
Fuel Filter	OEM 16400-72L00, 16400-72L05, 16400-72L15 Purolator F44663 same as 1996 Infiniti J30	Every 15,000 miles
Wiper Blades	Right Front Left Front Rear	xx inches xx inches xx inches
Radiator Cap	OEM – 21430-4B700
Brake Pads- Front Brembo	41060-12U87 OEM FMSI D960 HB181	As required
- Rear Brembo	44060-12U87 FMSI D961 HB180	As required
Brake Rotor - Front	324mm x 30 mm	As required
Rear	300mm x 22 mm	As required
Power Steering belt AC belt Alt/ WP /Fan	4PK 969 4PK 910 4PK 875	4PK= 4 rib 969= 969mm

3. Fluids

Replace them all before, and after each track day. It is cheap insurance.

Engine Oil - 7.5 - 30 (10-30 for a street car, 10-60 on a track car) - 4.5 liters
Oil Filter - OEM 15208-60U00 , WIX 51361, OEM(R34, smaller filter) 15208-9E000
Cooling System - Approximately 9 liters. Gycol or Water? Depends where you live.
Front Differential (F160) - GL5 85-90 1 liter - (1 quart)
Transmission fluid - Don't try and fill it though the gear shifter. Though the gear shifter is the transfer case . GL4 75-90 4.1 liters (4.3 quarts)
Transfer Case - Nissan Automatic Fluid Type D 1.8 liters (1.9 quarts)
Rear Differential(R200) - LSD GL5 80-90 1.5 liter(1.5 quarts)

Racing Brake Fluids
Brand Name	DOT Rating	Dry Boiling Point	Wet Boiling Point	Compatible with Conventional Brake Fluids*	Qty Fl Oz	Part Number
AP Radi-CAL R4	4	644	399	Yes	16.9	3310-004
Motul RBF 660	4	617	401	Yes	16.9	MT660
AP Radi-CAL R3 (formerly PRF)	4	608	399	Yes	16.9	3338-17oz
Red Line RL-600	4	604	400	Yes	16	RL600
Motul RBF 600	4	594	421	Yes	16.9	MT600
AP Radi-CAL R2 (formerly Super 600)	n/a	594	399	* No *	16.9	3309-17oz
Castrol SRF	4	590	518	Yes	33.8	NLA
Prospeed RS683	4	583	394	Yes	16.9	3340-201
ATE Type 200	4	536	396	Yes	33.8	3327-Liter
Motul DOT 5.1	5.1	516	369	Yes	16.9	MTDOT5.1
AP Radi-CAL R1 (formerly AP 551)	3	516	284	Yes	16.9	3305-17oz
Castrol Advanced Performance (formerly GT-LMA)	4	509 (was 446)	329	Yes	12 or 32	3308-Size

My pick for brake fluid, even though its more expensive, and a little hard to get is Castrol SRF. The dry boiling point is not the highest, but the wet boiling point is. In a perfect world, no water would be in the braking system. In reality brake fluid is hygroscopic (it attracts water), and there is lot of water in the air we breathe.

4. Tires

Tires are the only things that touch the track. We would say that the single biggest thing that effect how the car works, are the tires. The wrong tires for the wrong job, will mean you fail to reach your full potential. Tires will be a complicated problem because there are compromises. The fastest tires on track, will also wear fastest. The longest lasting street tires, will preform fairly poorly on track. Now if it rains, the best tires in the dry, may be the worst tires in the wet (think slicks).

Generally I want the stickiest, widest tire possible under the car. The key being under the car. Not sticking outside of the body lines.

Tire pressures are set with hot pressures in mind. You want to have at a minimum a good tire pressure gage, and note your cold tire pressure when you start the day. Then after each session, measure hot tire pressures. I prefer a larger 0-60 psi gage that is liquid filled with a bleeder. That gives you a bit more accurate of pressure readings.

What wheels fit my R32 GT-R?
Can I run different sized tires on my Skyline GT-R?
16 inch tire options for OEM R32 GT-R Wheels

Wheel lug tightening torque for Nissan Skyline GT-R 98- 188 N-m (10-12 kg-m, 72-87 ft-lb)

5. Brakes

Stock R32 GT-R - Non Vspec

Front -296 mm x 32 mm

40206-05U02 Right Front OEM Cross Drilled
40206-05U10 Right Front OEM Plain
40206-05U03 Left Front OEM Cross Drilled
40206-05U11 Left Front OEM Plain

Rear- 297 mm x 18 mm

43206-05U13 Rear OEM Cross Drilled

The OEM rotors are cross drilled. Eventually in the GT-R racing range they went to a solid rotor, because cross drilled rotors crack. For racing use, usually a different kind of surface treatment is popular(Plain, slotted, J-Hook). Cross drilling looks good, and works well enough on the street. I like a two piece rotor as they weigh less than a solid disk. You can save several pounds per corner by going to a aluminum hatted rotor.
DBA has their 5000 series of rotors but not in the stock 296 mm size, just the 4000 series rotors (Front DBA 4926 296MM 4000 Series Heavy Duty.)(Rear DBA 908) Have to see if I can come up with anything, or do something like a bracket to put a larger rotor on the car. Larger rotors mean larger wheels, and I think I am sticking with the 16's. (I lied, I'm on R34 18" now) Brake Weights - R32 GT-R
EBC Brake rotors ~$250 to $350 for a set - Front RK1226 ~$85-120 for a set Rear RK699

Std Brembo R32/R33/R34 rotors are 324 x 30 mm front

DBA Front Rotors DBA4928
DBA Front Pads DB1520

Std Brembo R32/R33/R34 rotors are 300 x 22 mm rear

Vspec N1 Brembo R34 rotors are 322 x 22 mm rear
F40 Front and Rear rotors are 332 x 32 mm
F50 Front rotors are 355 x 32(34?) mm
R35 Early - Front 380 x 34 mm
R35 Late - 390 x 32.6 mm (they went thinner)
R35 rear - 380 mm x 30 mm

6. Cooling

Cooling can depend on your ambient temperature and humidity. The hotter ambient is, the more humid it is, the less effective the cooling system is. On an RB26 there is a factory oil/water oil cooler. That cools the oil, but adds temperature to the coolant/water. Oil generally runs hotter than water. Radiator, Hoses, Coolant, Anti-Freeze, Water Pump information.

An RB26 is nearly oil cooled. 7 main caps, twin long cams, oil squirters, oil cooled pistons, turbos. Heat is introduced into the oil, and that heat needs to be rejected via an oil cooler. Big, and many seem to be the RB26 answer.

You probably need to run an aftermarket oil cooler. Bigger is better. If you are making a lot of power, then a lot of that power is turned into heat.

7. Suspension

Suspension. There are lot of parts to suspension. Some people use the term to only refer to the coil overs/shocks, but there are also suspension arms that encompass the term. Most Japanese brand coil overs are over sprung and underdamped. What this means is the springs are really stiff, and the control of the spring is not where it should be. While that setup may be fine on very smooth roads, or very smooth tracks, here in the US, we generally have neither.

In order for you to be able to control the car, the tires have to maintain contact with the road/track surface. If the car is so stiff that the tire is bouncing up and down, and not contacting the road, you will not have control. There are many reasons not to over lower a car, or to make it too stiff. Stiffness does not equate fast or good handling. We see all kinds of Chinese branded coil over crap sold to unknowing young buyers. When you are young you might be able to live with shitty suspension, but as you get older, and have a chance to try out cars with hundreds of setups, you will probably much prefer a real coil over, vs some eBay crap.

As far as brands go, we like Ohlins. There are different levels of Ohlins, the newest are the DFV, or dual flow valve setups. Ohlins does a good job of matching spring to damping.

Ride Height : Don't go too low. The suspension has to be able to compress to work and control the tire
Camber : The reason for camber, is not for you to fit the widest tire possible. Camber flattens out the tire as you are cornering. Too much camber negatively effects braking.
Toe : You have 10 of them. Or rather it is the direction the tire is pointing. Toe in, or toe out. Toe in make a car more stable, toe out makes it a little less stable. Toe being off is the biggest wear of a tire.
Caster : Shopping carts have casters. In a car it is self centering of the wheel, and steering effort related.

As far as adjustable parts go, if you don't know what they do, and how they interact with how the car handles, you might not want to mess with them. There are plenty of ways to adjust how a car handles, based on how you drive, and tire pressures, but lots of people want every piece of adjustable suspension component they can get, then leave it all stock settings. Don't be that guy.

Suspension and Alignment Settings : R32, R33, R34 GT-R
Suspension Parts : Nissan Skyline GT-R
R32 GT-R Chassis Bracing
MotoIQ : The Ultimate Guide to Suspension and Handling
Wheel Hop

8. Alignment

Alignment, corner balancing are both very important things in making a car handle well. Most any shop can handle aligning a Nissan Skyline. The OEM specs are above. Once you get into a track car however, your alignment for the track, may/should be different than for a street car. Follow some of the MotoIQ information above to learn more about suspension and handling. I use Smart Strings to align my personal cars, and race cars I work on. This allows for a much more precise setup.

Corner balancing is done for cars with adjustable suspension. If you don't have aftermarket coil overs then you won't be corner balancing. If you do, then it is a critical step in making sure that the car is setup for the track. If you don't have the tools required, you have to find a shop that can help you properly corner balance your car.

So on the Proform scales:

3167 lbs R32 GT-R 1/2 tank of gas
3336 lbs R33 GT-R with no gas
3348 lbs R34 GT-R with 1/4 tank of gas

GT-R Alignment Specifications

	BNR34	BCNR33	BNR32
Front Camber	- 0deg 50’ +/-45’	- 0deg 50’ +/-45’	- 0deg 55’ +/-45’
Front Caster	3deg 55’ +/- 45 ‘	3deg 55’ +/- 45 ‘	3deg 40’ +/- 45 ‘
Front Toe (mm)	2~1	0~2	1 +/- 1
Front Kingpin	15deg 20’ +/-45’	15deg 20’ +/-45’	15deg 25 +/-45’

Rear Camber	-1deg 15’ +/-30’	-1deg 05’+/-45’	-1deg 05’ +/-30’
Rear Toe (mm)	4~0	0~5.2	2 +/-2

9. Oiling

This is a double edged sword. If the car is stock, you aren't on a crazy tire, and everything is in good order, then whatever the car has is probably fine. However...

Peter from Australia mentioned that I should let people know that the oil level should be filled to the bump/hump in the dipstick. We do talk about it in the basics and oil and filter change, but it might be missed. This overfill may help keep your oil pickup covered in oil. Very good idea for a near stock car that is tracked. Some pictures of oil pan level and that bump are here - https://www.gtrusablog.com/2019/08/rb26dett-oil-pan-testing-filling-it.html

10. Nut and Bolt

Nut and bolt is what we do to any car before we take it on track. It is a critical step to ensure that you have the minimal amount of mistakes or failures. You will hopefully save yourself a ton of time and effort if you just do some checking. You really want to touch, poke, prod, and shake everything on the car prior to going on track. You will find loose items, and fix them before they become an issue. Make sure you lift the car, and grab each wheel/tire at 12 and 6 oclock and shake. Then grab them at 9 and 3 and shake. You are checking the condition of the wheel bearings, tie rods, and other suspension parts.

Nut and bolt involves taking wrenches, and other tools, and putting them on anything on the car that was touched, might fall off the car. So if you just replaced the brakes, then go back with a little clearer head, and double check them. Often what we do on race cars, is use two people, each with a paint marker that goes around the car, and puts a dot/mark on each nut or bolt they touch. Fast reference to make sure that you have the minimum amount of mistakes. We are all human, we all make mistakes, or miss a bolt.

The best paint marker we have tried and used, is the 1.8 mm to 2.5 mm Posca marker in Pink. Pink shows up on about anything. Easy to see, not expensive at about $5 each. Really worth it if you have things to mark.

11. Tow Hooks

Tow hooks are required for most track day event organizers. They want a safe, defined spot on your car, where they can move it, if it becomes disabled.

12. Fuel

Run good gas in your car. We could talk about octane, and octane requirements. But we just will say, run the good gas. Run the expensive gas. If you are blasting around the track, not paying attention to things like boost, or temperature, good gas may save your engine. So that few hundred dollars in the good stuff, may save you a $5k engine rebuild.

13. Modifications

These are entirely optional. There are a metric fuckton of things you can do to a Nissan Skyline to make it preform better, or perhaps worse on track. Yes really. You really can make it worse. If you don't know the hows and whys of a modification, you should seek some help, or guidance. Aka low is good, so lower is better?